Marcus Kan wears many hats including those of fashion director, blogger and Swide contributor. Here he reviews the Fall/Winter 2012 Milan menswear collections. For more on the collections visit Marcus’ blog, À La Mode.
The ‘gentleman’ is the main theme for this season’s Milan Fashion Week. While some designers stuck to the concept and produced classic looks, others have taken this concept and put a spin on it to produce refreshing collections. Here are 5 collections which you should keep in mind for the coming fall/winter season.
Christopher Bailey has taken the classic approach by creating the British gentleman look. On the runway, there are a lot of suits and different kinds of jackets. In order to make it modern, Bailey has applied geometric and stripe patterns on some of the pieces and the results are very refreshing. This is actually the essential collection for men because most of the pieces are timeless and can be worn for many seasons. If you are considering a wardrobe upgrade, this is the collection you must have in mind.
Focus point: Jackets, gloves, animal handle umbrellas
For this season, Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana decided to bring all of us back to the romantic and artistic Baroque period. It is still about the gentlemen but in a very grand way. Embroidery is the key as many of the pieces are decorated with gold abstract patterns. If you are not a fan of embroidery, there are still other options for you to choose this coming season including such as the black velvet suit. Overall, I think this is the classiest collection of the Milan Fashion Week.
Focus point: Embroidered jackets, shoes, socks
Hands down to Dean and Dan Caten for taking the gentlemen theme to another level. Instead of focusing on the classic gentlemen, they have decide to turn the target onto the next generation: the college kids. This collection has all the essential pieces for a college student such as hoodies, leather jackets and classic checked sweaters but of course they are all in premium materials. As I said to a lot of people, if everyone were dressing like this in my college days, I would have enjoyed my time at school.
Focus point: The glasses, the leather jacket, the jeans (heard a lot of compliments about this brand’s jeans)
This is the first collection for Daniele Cavalli as the head designer of Roberto Cavalli and I am very surprised by the results. The gentlemen theme still exists but the rocker DNA has been injected into the pieces to spice up the collection. Exaggerated animal print is no longer the major element of this brand. Instead, in this collection, you see a lot of plain colour pieces which highlight the premium materials. However, if you are still hoping to get the exaggerated animal print piece, the abstract zebra print will be your top choice next season!
Focus point: The colour pieces, crocodile print blazer and pants
Photos courtesy of Style.com
I think Donatella is thinking a different kind of gentleman when she created this collection. Instead of the classic look, she has taken inspiration from the soldier, biker and rocker. The entire collection is very daring and it really surprised me when Versace introduced the “flora-flage” (the brand has coined this term, a combination of floral and camouflage) on the runway. Also, the evening wear collection has really blown me away with the crystallized “flora-flage” pieces. Every outfit looks very masculine and you will need a lot of guts to wear some of the outfits.
Focus point: Evening wear, gold chain denim blazer, boots, leather jacket