Marcus Kan’s coverage of menswear fashion weeks continues with a Paris Spring 2012 fashion week wrap-up. For more detailed coverage visit his blog a la mode.
By Marcus Kan
Paris Fashion Week is finally over and now let’s take a little recap my favorite shows.
The Thierry Mugler collection is finally back on track again. Neon green, robotic accessories and sharp shoulder, the signature elements of Thierry Mugler, are finally back on the garments and Nicola Formichetti has successfully blended the above elements with his new concept designs (ie. a jacket that is sliced open around the waist area). The neon green suit is something I will be expecting to see in editorials in the future. (Note: If you have never watched a porno before, don’t bother watching that artistic short film, it will ruin your first time experience).
This is the first season for Kim Jones to be the studio director (with Marc Jacobs) of Louis Vuitton and the collection is very impressive. The clothes in this collection are very wearable and you can see Damier Checks has become the signature element here. Of course, the accessories are one of the key elements of this luxurious brand and out of all the bags I have seen so far, the monogram quilted bags are something to look forward to next season.
You can see Riccardo Tisci is very ambitious this year as he only uses one floral print to create the whole Givenchy menswear collection. Unlike the previous collections, this season he has used no black at all which I think means the dark age of Givenchy is finally over. I can see that Riccardo is concentrating on the different designs of the tops and the use of materials such as crystals and sequins on the menswear. My favorite piece in this collection is the slim cut suit as the cutting will make a man look very sleek.
Walter Van Beirendonck continues to produce a fun collection for this S/S 2012 season. The colorful collection consists of a lot of nice blazers and the hollow cuts of some of the sweaters are very interesting. Of course, how can you not like the last few ruffle looks of the runway show? They are simply fun to wear and not practical and this is something I believe fashion should be like when it comes to creative pieces.
Dior Homme is finally coming back with a very strong, elegant collection. The collection has four main colors―blue, brown, white and black―and Kris Van Assche has created various cuttings (from slim fit to loose fit) to suit different Dior fans. I can see the one button blazer is the signature piece for this collection. This is definitely a comeback for Dior Homme and I am glad Kris finally knows which direction he is going in for this fashion house.
If you like prints, you will love Kenzo as the collection is full of floral print pieces. Also, the color palette is very vibrant so the collection has a very strong summer breeze vibe. The lace up shoes and the brightly coloured suits are what I like the most about this collection. Yes, you will most likely see men in Paris cruising on the street wearing this collection next spring.
Some of the other brands that have caught my eyes include Comme des Garçons with the red checkered jackets; Hermès with the timeless Parisian style collection; Yves Saint Laurent with the slim jackets; Ann Demeulemeester with the bohemian style outfits; Viktor & Rolf with the denim piece; and Dries Van Noten with the blue/white/red stripes shirts.
I would really want to talk about the Galliano collection but at this moment I still do not have enough information on the creative process behind this collection so you will have to look it up yourself. It’s a marvellous collection and the most wearable collection I have seen from this fashion house.
What’s your favorite show in Paris Fashion Week? I want to hear from you.